
Why Is My 11 kW Charger Only Charging at 3.6 kW?
3.6 kW is one phase’s share of an 11 kW three-phase charger. Either your car takes one phase, or the unit was fed with one — one test with a second car separates the two.
As an expert in the charging pile industry, EVDANCE has rich experience in the development and manufacturing of intelligent EV charging solutions. This is where we turn our engineering insights into knowledge and share them with the global EV community.

3.6 kW is one phase’s share of an 11 kW three-phase charger. Either your car takes one phase, or the unit was fed with one — one test with a second car separates the two.

The charger advertises 32 A; the car decides what to draw. A 16 A result comes from the car’s own limit, a 16 A cable, or a 16 A setting — check them in that order.

One click at the start and end of a session is the contactor working. Clicking that repeats while charging is a session dropping and restarting — and the pattern says why.

A charging plug that is hot to the touch is a stop-and-inspect sign: heat means resistance where the contacts meet, and the hot end tells you whose problem it is.

Heat at the wall socket is made inside the receptacle: its hidden spring contacts wear and loosen under hours of continuous EV load. Stop using a hot socket; an electrician replaces it.

Mild warmth spread evenly along a charging cable is normal. One hot spot — at a kink, under a mat, at one connector — is not. Where the warmth is tells you which it is.

Two locks can hold a cable at the car: the handle latch and the car’s inlet pin — plus a session that never ended. Three quick observations tell you which one is holding.

A Type 2 cable stuck in a post is usually a session that never closed on the station’s record. End it properly, then let the operator release the lock — never force it.

Plugged in but nothing starts? Work the two-minute observations first — what the charger shows and what the car shows assign the fault to one side before any part is blamed.

A charger dead after a power cut is usually tripped, latched or waiting — not damaged. The state it woke up in tells you which, and which professional owns it.

We use cookies and similar technologies to enhance site navigation, analyze website traffic, & deliver personalized content. By clicking "Accept All", you consent to the use of all cookies. Cookie Policy & Details